Full setup, in the right order

1. Check the gauge on the pack and compare it with your guitar's gauge below.
2. Same gauge: go ahead. A different gauge pulls on the bridge differently, so the bridge may tilt and the tremolo needs rebalancing afterwards. That's a separate job.

1. Start with the low E. Changing one string at a time keeps the pull on the bridge and neck balanced.
2. Turn the tuner until the string is completely slack. Never cut a string that's still under tension.
3. Unwind it from the tuner post, then push it back through the bridge and pull it out from the back of the guitar.

1. Push the new string through its hole in the tremolo block at the back of the guitar.
2. Pull it all the way through until the ball end sits in the block.
3. Guide it over its saddle and along the neck.

1. Pull the string to about two tuner posts past its own post. That leaves enough length.
2. Put the end through the hole in the post and bend it sideways.
3. Wind so the string goes on the inside of the post and the wraps run downward.
4. Aim for about 2–3 wraps on wound strings and a few more on plain strings.
5. Cut the leftover end.

1. Tune the string to pitch.
2. Pull it gently away from the fretboard along its length a few times.
3. Re-tune. Repeat until it stays in tune.

1. Do the A, D, G, B and high E the same way, one at a time.
2. Before the last string, it's a good moment to wipe the fretboard with a dry cloth.

1. Tune all strings again.
2. Look at the bridge from the side. If it was flat or slightly raised before, it should look the same now.
3. Tilted much further forward than before? The tremolo springs need rebalancing (coming soon), or see a luthier.

1. Put a capo on the 1st fret.
2. Hold the low E down at the last fret.
3. Measure the gap between the string and the top of the 8th fret.
4. A typical target is about 0.25 mm. Enter your measurement.

1. On this guitar the truss rod adjusts at the headstock end, just behind the nut.
2. Use the key that fits snugly. A loose key can round off the nut.
3. If the adjustment is at the body end and you'd have to remove the neck or the pickguard to reach it, see a luthier.

1. Look at the adjustment nut from the headstock end.
2. Too much relief: turn ⅛ turn clockwise (tighten).
3. Too little relief or a back-bow: turn ⅛ turn anticlockwise (loosen).
4. Only ⅛ turn at a time. It should turn with light, steady force. Never force it. If it won't turn, or it creaks, stop and see a luthier.

1. Tune to pitch again.
2. Give the neck a few minutes to settle. Some necks take longer: if the reading keeps changing, check again tomorrow.

1. Measure at the 8th fret like before.
2. Still off? Repeat the ⅛ turn and let it settle again. Don't go further than about half a turn in total in one session.

1. Changing relief changes the string height. Measure the action at the 12th fret and follow the action guide if needed.

1. Tune every string to standard pitch (E A D G B E) with the built-in tuner.
2. Hold the guitar the way you play it, or lay it on its back with the neck supported. Measure in the same position every time.

1. Remove the capo.
2. Stand the ruler on top of the 12th fret, next to the low E string.
3. Read the gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string. Write it down.
4. Do the same for the high E.

1. Keep the strings at pitch. Don't loosen them for this job.
2. Turn both height screws on the low E saddle a quarter turn anticlockwise. On most bridges of this type that lowers the saddle.
3. Turn each screw the same amount so the saddle stays level.
4. Re-tune, then measure the gap between the string and the top of the 12th fret.
5. Repeat until you reach your target, then do the other strings so they follow the curve of the fretboard.

Action too low and buzzing? Turn clockwise instead to raise the saddle.

1. Play every fret on every string, as hard as you normally play.
2. A little buzz you only hear unplugged is normal. Buzz you hear through the amp is not.
3. Buzz on a few frets? Raise that string's saddle a quarter turn clockwise and test again.

1. Changing saddle height changes string tension a little. Tune every string to pitch again.

1. Tune every string with the built-in tuner.
2. Hold your phone close to the strings, around the pickups, in a quiet room.

1. Pick a string.
2. Play the harmonic at the 12th fret: touch the string lightly right above the 12th fret wire, pick it, then lift your finger.
3. Now press the string down at the 12th fret and pick it again.
4. The gauge shows how far the fretted note is from the harmonic.
5. Sharp: the string is too short. Turn the intonation screw clockwise to move the saddle away from the neck.
6. Flat: turn it anticlockwise to move the saddle towards the neck.
7. Re-tune and listen again. Repeat until it's within ±5 cents, then go to the next string.

1. Moving one saddle changes the tension on the others a little. Tune all strings again and run one more quick check on each.

1. Play a few chords low and high on the neck (for example an open E and the E barre chord at the 12th fret). They should sound in tune with each other.